Fehivalu Guest House Fourteen rooms on Fuvahmulah, six minutes from the airport and ten from Thoondu

What the sea here is, and what it is not

There is no lagoon around this island. Thoondu can be flat on Tuesday and closed on Wednesday, and that catches people out.

Most visitors arrive with a picture in their head of a shallow turquoise lagoon and a beach you can wade into. This island is not that, and it is better to read it here than to work it out standing on the stones at Thoondu.

Fuvahmulah is one island in one atoll, alone in open water, and the ocean comes straight in. Thoondu at the north end is a beach of round white stones rather than sand, and it is one of the most striking places in the country. It is also a beach with real swell, real current and no reef edge holding anything back.

Some mornings the water there is glass. On others the same spot is dangerous and local people will not go near it. The difference is not something a visitor can read off the surface, and nobody should try.

So the rule at this guest house is simple. Ask at reception on the day. Shareef or Ismail will tell you where the water is safe that morning, where it is not, and when the honest answer is nowhere. Nobody here will soften that to keep a guest happy, and please never swim on your own.

What the sea does give you is the reason half our guests come: the big animals off the harbour, seen from a proper boat with a proper crew. We book that with a centre in town and we do not pretend to run it ourselves.